How to Change Your Brake Pads and Rotors

Diy and save money! Conserve money by doing-it-yourself. Zero matter how you say it, it can really mount up. I like the phrase a great deal that I actually think I’ll make it my new mantra. Probably you should too. I have literally saved thousands of dollars getting into my own auto repairs. Among the coolest DIY projects you can apply is performing your own foot brake job. http://www.autoperformanceguides.com

This job is relatively simple when in comparison to other repairs but there are very a few steps involved and they should be followed carefully. We’ll break it down into 3 parts; (1) removing the brake parts, (1a) removing and changing the rotors (brake discs), and (2) reinstalling the brake pads. If if you’re just replacing your brake pedal pads, skip 1a and jump to part 2 after completing part one particular.

I should mention that we’re discussing disc tires only. Disc brakes will either be found on the front wheels only or both front and rear. Some vehicles have drum brakes on the rear wheels and the procedure for replacing them is slightly different. Carry out you want? OK, why don’t we get started. 

Reference desk

Brake Pads

Brake brake discs [a. k. a. discs] (if applicable)

Brake rotor hold-down products (if applicable)

Caliper guide bolts (replace if bad)

Caliper guide bolt bushing

Brake pad sensor wires(if applicable)

Brake parts clean

Anti-squeal compound

Brake parts fat

Anti-seize compound

Equipment list

Breaker bar

Ratchet & Sockets (SAE and Metric)

Allen bits for ratchet

Various screw motorists

Wire cleaning brush

Caliper piston tool/medium C-clamp

Store cloths

Bungee cord

Nitrile hand protection

Rubber mallet

Revolt wrench tool

Part one particular

Changing the brake parts

First, decide if your going to replace the pads in any way four tires or maybe two. You’ll replace the pads in pairs, front wheels or backside wheels. For a complete job and best results, do all 4 tires. If your budget and time constraints won’t allow it, do front or rear. The front steering wheel brake calipers, pads, and rotors are larger than those on the trunk area and cost a little more. The procedures for both are simply the same.

By deciding whether or not the brake job is for two wheels or four will also determine whether you’ll jack the entrance, rear, or both terminates of the car. If you have an impact marker to get rid of the lug peanuts from the wheels, you can proceed with the jacking. If you have to remove the carry nuts by using a crowbar, you should loosen them simply a little (breaking the seize) as the wheels are on the ground. After the tires are in the air, they might turn freely, which will make removing the lug nuts extremely tough, if not impossible. Safely plug in the vehicle and then support it on plug stands. Never perform work while a vehicle is merely maintained a jack. Tige fail and you could be getting your life at risk.

Once a wheel is removed, remove the anti-rattle clip (if applicable) by prying it and moving it out with a huge screwdriver. Next, let’s remove the brake caliper. To get the leading wheels, it can be necessary to turn the steerage completely either to the right as well as to the left side to access the caliper guide bolts. Typically, they are on the backside side of the caliper. The caliper guide products may have dust limits. These will be made of rubber or plastic material. Use a tiny screwdriver to pry them out. When the caps are removed, the bolt heads will be exposed.

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